How to build and use an Emesh vape

First written: 2023-10-22
Last nontrivial update: 2023-11-17
Author: Andromeda ✨

Components

  • GeekVape 80W Aegis Mini modbox
    • A small, reliable, and aesthetically pleasing device. One of the few available modboxes with a temperature control setting that IME is best for vaporizing freebase materials.
  • Cthulhu Ceto RDA
    • An RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser) module that screws onto the modbox, originally intended to be used for vaporizing nicotine via a heated ring of mesh. These components are uncommon in the nicotine vaping community due to the popularity of coil-based vaping, and thus are difficult to find online / frequently out of stock.
  • Vandy Vape Mesh Wire – SS316L, Size: 150 / 200
    • Originally sold alongside the vandy vape mesh RDA (no longer in production). I prefer size 200, but either work according to internet wisdom. If you intend to purchase this component online, be sure to get the stainless steel variant (SS316L).
  • Armerah Pipe Stem XL 810 Drip Tip
    • An essential piece of kit if you wish to avoid burning your throat.

Assembly

  • Charge the Aegis Mini modbox using the included micro-usb cable.
  • Cut off a piece of mesh (approx 1.5-2 inches length).
  • Remove the small plastic mouthpiece that comes with the Ceto RDA (to be replaced later with the extended drip tip module).
  • Screw the RDA onto the modbox.
  • Once secured tight, pull the housing (i.e., the metal cylinder) away from the base.
    • Note: in my experience it was very stuck on and required a lot of strength & patience to separate – I think there’s a layer of glue stuck inside from the manufacturing process.
  • Once removed, loosen the screws on one gate and insert one end of the mesh piece. Push it through the gate and once its poking out the other side tighten the screws to secure in place (fairly tight to avoid loose contact).
  • Repeat this process on the other gate until you have a loop of mesh.
  • Turn the device on (five button presses), and if required, swap to the fixed wattage setting (three button presses, navigate the menu using lower buttons, hold fire button to exit menu).
  • Set the wattage to something high (e.g., 32W) and hold the fire button to burn off anything that’s on the mesh (e.g., from the manufacturing process).
    • Note: follow this step before each session to clean your mesh (for hygiene purposes). Most freebase materials aren’t 100% pure and contain trace amounts of organic compounds from their extraction process. Due to the efficiency and precision of the emesh method, you can avoid inhaling these compounds if their vaporization temperature is above that of the compound which you are intending to vaporize. In my experience, it builds up on the mesh looking like a burnt resin.

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  • Take a small scoop of your favorite freebase material and place on the mesh.

Change the wattage setting to something low (e.g., 7W) and gently pulse the fire button to melt the material onto the mesh.

  • Repeat until desired amount has melted on.
  • Attach the housing to the base, with the drip tip in alignment with the gates pointing upward (a precaution against spillage).
  • There are several tear-shaped holes surrounding the housing which control air intake. To open / close them, twist the top ring of the housing (I usually keep them all open).
    • Note: like the ‘detaching housing’ step, this can also be annoying due to the possible layer of glue stuck to the inside. To avoid future hassle, run the housing (not the base!) under hot water and gently rotate the top ring to loosen things up.

Vaporization

  • When operating the device, try and keep it level & orientated with the mesh facing upwards as the material can sometimes dribble off the edge when the mesh gets heated.
  • Breath in as if you are sipping from a narrow straw.
    • I usually aim for a 1:1.5 ratio of vaporized material to air, achieved by keeping your lips slightly open around the drip tip mouthpiece.
  • If possible, hold the vapor in your lungs for >15 secs for the sake of efficiency (apparently 45 seconds is ideal for complete absorption, but please don’t push yourself beyond your level of comfort).
  • Holding down the button will result in continuous operation of the device, up to 10 seconds (after which it times out). If you want to take a second puff, release and press the button again.
  • Be a good empiricist! If the vapor tastes burnt (you will know this instantly) then change the parameters to decrease the temperature of the mesh, and vice versa if its taking too long to vaporize.
    • Note: I haven’t seen this mentioned online, but in my experience it is better to start at a higher temperature and then work down. The reason being that while the material can vaporize at a lower temperature, it does not seem to produce the same magnitude of effects as higher temperatures. My hypothesis is that the vaporized material, having only just overcome the energy threshold required to transition into a gas, recrystallizes on its way to your lungs, reducing the total amount your alveoli absorbs. YMMV!
      There are two settings I would recommend using:

Fixed Wattage

  • Delivers a fixed amount of power to the mesh, regardless of other factors.
  • More straightforward to set up, but not optimized for efficiency as you have to consider the effects of your breath intake on the temperature of the mesh.
    • If you breathe in too hard, the mesh might not get hot enough to vaporize the material.
    • Conversely, if you breathe in too softly, the material might get too hot and burn.
  • Set the wattage to 18W to start, but play around with this setting as the optimal configuration depends on the force of your breath intake.

Temperature Control (TCR)

  • Modulates the power delivered to the mesh to maintain a stable temperature, correcting for the effect of breath intake.
  • More difficult to set up, but can deliver multiple breakthroughs in a single hit.
  • Based on the following parameters:
    Temperature (TEMP): The algorithm’s predicted temperature value (modifiable).
    COIL: Coil resistance reading (unmodifiable). Alters how the algorithm predicts its temperature value.
    WAT: Maximum allowable wattage for heating (modifiable). I would suggest setting this at something like 25W and never changing.
    TCR: To be honest, I have no clue what this is, but it also changes the algorithm’s predicted temperature value (modifiable).
  • There probably exists an ideal method for setting these values, but I usually just play around with the TCR and TEMP until the mesh emits a faint red glow while in a dark environment, which seems to be optimal for vaporization.
    • Note that the COIL parameter sometimes changes (e.g., while swapping out the mesh), in which case the vape will say ‘new coil detected’. Press ‘accept’ and repeat the above step.

Maintenance

  • While the mesh can be cleaned by pulsing the vape at a high fixed wattage setting (see earlier note), over time this becomes less effective and you should replace it with a fresh snipping. You can monitor the mesh lifespan by observing whether it heats up evenly during these pulses.
  • Over time, a layer of gunk will begin to build up coating the gates on the RDA. While the device is still technically functional it is not very hygienic. To properly clean your device you will need some cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. Unscrew the gates to remove the mesh, the screws, and half of each gate. Throw out the mesh and soak the remaining components in iso, then use an iso-dipped swab to wipe clean the inside of the drip tip, and the base and interior walls of the RDA.
    • Note: if you don’t care that much about hygiene, still clean your device but first scrape the recrystallized material from the drip tip & RDA and set aside. You can vaporize this but be warned its very potent!

Finally, if you have any tips or tricks that you would like to contribute to this guide, please send me an email or use the anonymous contact form on my website. Happy travels and infinite bliss! 𓂀